Port Wine Institute, Lisbon

We visited the Port Wine Institute in Lisbon, the place that decides the quality and vintage of all port made here. Quite a lofty responsibility, and the bar that's attached to the place reflects the seriousness of this purpose.

We started with a pair that both won us over. A Warre late bottle vintage, 1994, came first, the red a ruby that was stunning, its legs thick as a linebackers, earthy cranberry nose that had a tobaccoey finish that was very nice.

Along with this one came a 40 year Dalva, a llighter color than the first, ruby almost, with a caramelly nose and a bit hotter approach to the tongue. IT was stupendous, though.

The second round consisted of a Graham's late bottle vintage from 97 and a Ferreira vintage from 97. The Graham's was fruitier than the rest, softer, with a stronger finish and less tanniny tones. The Ferreira was all dark beries, more acid and heat here, maybe the least favorite of the day.

Lastly we entered our normal realm--the cheapies. We had a Burmeister Sotto Voce Reserva and a Ramos Pinto Adriano, both just plain yummy, no heat, all porty fruit and warm stomach.

The Institute was a great experience, definitely recommended.